Suyeonsanbang – A Quiet Indulgence in Seongbuk-dong

Hidden in the foothills of Bukhan Mountain, in the artsy neighborhood of Seongbuk-dong, lies a place that feels untouched by time—Suyeonsanbang (수연산방). Once the home of Korean author Lee Taejun (이태준), known by his pen name Sangheo (상허), this small writer’s cottage was where he lived from 1933 to 1946. He named it Suyeonsanbang, loosely meaning “a small water pond near the mountains”—a title as poetic as the man himself.


Today, the home has been transformed into a teahouse, but it still holds the quiet aura of its literary past. Wooden beams, creaking floors, and delicate garden views give the space a sense of intimacy and history, making it feel like a private retreat rather than a café.

Before reaching the teahouse, I wandered the streets of Seongbuk-dong. This artsy neighborhood is full of galleries, small museums, and quiet corners that feel like they’ve been holding stories for decades. It’s peaceful, creative, and timeless—perfect for exploring without a plan.

What led me here, however, was another story: it’s been said that Jungkook once visited Suyeonsanbang, and that whisper was enough to draw me toward this hidden corner of Seoul. In my Purple Vault, food is called indulgence, and my BTS-inspired stops are treasured relics. Suyeonsanbang felt like a different kind of indulgence—one of atmosphere and memory rather than taste alone.

One unforgettable moment: guests are asked to remove their shoes before entering. I saw slippers by the door and, thinking they were for me, slipped them on. The staff panicked and quickly told me to remove them! I couldn’t stop laughing—it was such a small, human moment that made the place feel even more personal and alive.

I indulged in Daechu Cha (Jujube Tea), a classic Korean tea made from jujubes. I found it a bit too sour for my taste, but served cold, it was refreshing enough to enjoy. For dessert, I had Danhobak Bingsu, a shaved ice treat topped with sweet pumpkin and chewy rice cakes. I’m usually not a fan of pumpkin, but this version was surprisingly delicious. I also enjoyed the Pumpkin Porridge (Danhobak Beombeok), warm and comforting, rounding out the experience.

Sitting there, sipping and tasting, I could almost imagine the author at his desk decades ago, writing and gazing at the mountains. This visit was a quiet indulgence to tuck into my Purple Vault—one of those fleeting yet timeless moments where history, literature, and a gentle connection to BTS all all converged.

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